Sunilda

d8c_4297_sunilda1_srgb72Sunilda, p 22 in The Second Viking Knits Collection, was initially knitted in Cotton Patiné, a cotton yarn that has been discontinued, witch had a slightly looser gauge than what I use for Silky Wool.

I knitted Sunilda in Silky Wool using the normal gauge of 22 sts per 4 inches / 10 cm  and it worked like a charm.

The original measurements were rather generous so its still works at a tighter gauge, the chest circumference is 95% of the original.

I just knitted from the instructions in the book, but if I were to re-knit it again, I would make the sleeves tighter, maybe remove 10 sts, 5 at each side, from the cast-on and all the way to the top. As a consequence I would have to make the armhole ¾ inch shorter by binding off for the armhole ¾ inch later than stated in the instructions.

I love it!

Sunilda

Sunilda, p 22 in The Second Viking Knits Collection, was initially knitted in Cotton Patiné, a cotton yarn that has been discontinued, witch had a slightly looser gauge than what I use for Silky Wool.

I knitted Sunilda in Silky Wool using the normal gauge of 22 sts / 4 inches and it worked like a charm.

The original measurements were rather generous so its still works at a tighter gauge, the chest circumference is 95% of the original.

I just knitted from the instructions in the book, but if I were to re-knit it again, I would make the sleeves tighter, maybe remove 10 sts, 5 at each side, from the cast-on and all the way to the top. As a consequence I would have to make the armhole ¾ inch shorter by binding off for the armhole ¾ inch later than stated in the instructions.

Photo as always Anders Rydell.

I love it!

Olivia & Ernie

Two new patterns for kids are now available for download on Ravelry.

They were photographed in late August on a small local beach. We had planned an outing to take a family photograph of the girls and their parents. The older one had been photographed before, for a different project, so we asked, could we bring a couple of sweaters and use Julia, and possibly her sister, if they felt like it. We never want to force children, the whole photo experience has to be a good one.

Well, at first Julia didn’t want to, and anyway the cardigan was too big for her (the cardigan is knitted for a size 6 years, she is a small 4-year-old), so we decided to just play around some. Then all of a sudden, there’s Maja, the little sister, in the hoodie. So Anders grabs his camera and starts shooting as we play. Then Julia pulls on the cardie – she wants to be in on the fun too. So that way we did get a bunch of lovely photos.

Although the photos aren’t perfect; the hair is in disarray, the t-shirts are showing etc., the girls are so pretty and full of life and it was just such a perfect day that we decided to use the photos anyway. And there’s a bonus in the fact that the photos show off the garments in a real life situation.

Olivia

Is a versatile cardie with a pretty pattern balanced by plain stockinette sleeves (the sleeves have the same rolled edgings as the body).

Ernie

Just a plain hoodie, suitable for both girls and boys. The eagle motif on the kangaroo pocket is inspired by Native American imagery and the contrast color is used again in the rolled edgings.

The name is actually a Swedish (bad) pun. The Swedish word for eagle is Örn, pronounced as the first part of Ernie. I just couldn’t help myself.

I gave the girls the sweaters as a thanks for helping us and they love them. I hope your whatever-year-olds will love theirs too.

Photo as always Anders Rydell.

Jarnsaxa

Jarnsaxa is one of my favorite designs. It is one that works well in my life and on my body. I have also made a version in red, with a garter stitch crew neck so I can wear a turtleneck sweater underneath. I have worn my first red Jarnsaxa to shreds, so I had to make another. Here is my latest version shown on lovely Johanna.

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I did initially make a longer version as well, which can be seen here, photographed on pretty Sabrina. For those of you who would like to lengthen it, all I’ve done is work a longer stretch before the first motif, everything else is following the instructions.

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Both versions, as well as the original, are worked in my Silky Wool yarn.

The pattern for Jarnsaxa can be found on p.139 in Viking Knits and Ancient Ornaments, where you can also find almost 100 new cable panels and motifs and a number of other designs as well as drawings and photographs of historic and pre-historic artefacts decorated with the same interlace patterns.

Photo as always, Anders Rydell

A new kitchen

A new kitchen dictated a need for new potholders.

Since potholders are basically smallish squares with a loop for hanging, potholders can be used for experimenting with new techniques. Now, I wasn’t really in that place, too much going on in my life. What I needed was zen knitting.

And this is what I came up with; using garter stitch and modular knitting it became fun and I ended up with a new (at least to me) way of picking up stitches along garter stitch edges that makes the fabric more reversible. Here it is:

A more reversible method of picking up stitches along garter stitch edges

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Insert a double-pointed needle (I used a circular) into the little knotsat the edge, created by the garter stitches, 1 stitch to each garter ridge. You may have to add the last stitch in the form of a loop.

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Pull the needle through so you can start knitting from the correct end of the work.

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Knit (you’ll need to knit into the back loop of the stitch on the first row)!

That’s all there is to it.

My Hempathy yarn is very suitable for kitchen duty; sturdy, washable and slightly antibacterial (in a natural, non-aggressive way) thanks to the hemp content, but too thin. So after a couple of trials I decided to use three strands held together. The potholders are somewhat slippery until they’ve been washed.

This is he first pair of potholders knitted to match my new kitchen. I will post more versions later on (I ended up knitting several for friends and family). This is a perfect gift and the design works for many styles from ultra modern to more traditional.

Here’s the recipe:

Potholders / Hot pad

Knitted with 3 strands of Hempathy on US size 8 / 5 mm needles to a gauge of approximately 18 stitches and 36 rows to 4 x 4 inches / 10 x 10 cm. Note that this means the same number of stitches and rows. The gauge isn’t important; a lloser gauge will make the potholders larger and a tighter gauge will make them smaller. What is important is that they are thick and firm enough to isolate the heat.

Each potholder is 32 sts x 32 garter ridges (64 rows). The cast-on row is counted as row 1 and you’ll bind off on row 32.

I’ve used 2–3 colors and each potholder weighs just under 50 g, so 3 balls of Hempathy would make a matching set of 2 potholders and a hot pad. This is also a perfect way to use odds and ends.

Cast on 18–22 sts and work 62 rows of garter st (31 ridges). Bind off but do not break the yarn. Pick up 1 st in each garter ridge (see above) until you have 32 sts.

Now work 20–28 rows of garter st (10–14 ridges).

The total number of stitches + rows should be the same in each direction, in this case 32.

Bind off all sts but do not break the yarn (except for the hot pad). Now crochet 15 single crochet. Pull yarn through and fasten to make a loop.

I hope you’ll have fun playing around with colors, striping, and different widths on the different sections.

Photos as always, Anders Rydell

Update on Keane

My beret and wrist warmers, Keane, have been available on Ravelry for a while.

Here I want to share another way of using the instructions.

The stitch pattern I have used is simple and decorative, making this a perfect gift. Even without the cable motif it is pretty. Here are the wrist warmers without the cable motif and I have turned the brim section of the beret into a neck warmer, again without the cable motif.

If you like your neck warmer tight you might want to cast on 4 or 8 sts less than given in the instructions.

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Neck warmer: Cast on and work as for the brim part of the beret. Now increase 1 st in every garter rib and continue knitting back an forth in pattern but now with 3 garter sts instead of 2. Bind off when work measures 8 in /20 cm.

Happy Knitting!

Photo as always by Anders Rydell.

Vigdis from Viking Patterns for Knitting, p. 78

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With the return of sweaters with a back that is longer than the front, I decided to rework my design Vigdis which I originally designed in the mid 90’s. Still a cool design. See the original at http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/vigdis-tunic-with-separate-hood

I decided to knit it in my new yarn, Misty Wool (I wrote about Misty Wool in an earlier post), even though that has a completely different gauge, 18 sts / 4 inches instead of 13 sts / 4 inches as in the instructions, and just see what happened.

So here I will share some thoughts on how to handle the changes.

I made some simple calculations that indicated that knitting from the instructions for size Large would produce a size Small. I also decided to make it shorter, striving for a 20 inch front and a 4 inch longer back. I got my fabulous knitter, Helena Norén, to do the actual knitting, and here is the result.

The new Vigdis is worked on US8 / 5 mm needles at a gauge of 18 sts x 26 rows / 4 inches. It used 600 g of Misty Wool.

The chest width came out 39 inches and my lengths worked fine. The front has 4 repeats + Rows 1+2 before neck shaping, the back has a total of 6 repeats.

Place 16 sts on a holder for the front neck and make the neck 3½–4 inches deep. For the back neck place 28 sts on a holder. Other than that, follow the instructions in the book. You will need around 8 or 12 more sts for the neck band, I had 86 sts.

Since the the chest width is smaller, the sleeves need to be longer, about 2 inches in my case, and that means that the increases could be placed every 8th row instead of every 6th.

The sleeve width at the top is approx. 16 inches. That is a bit tight, they would have been better with 4 more sts the whole way up.

Basically it is easy to adapt Vigdis for any size; just add the necessary number of sts in the stockinette sections on either side of the center panel. For the sleeve you need to calculate the number of stitches needed for the ribbing and for the upper arm width, than you can space the increases every 8th row and if you need more width when you reach the top, place the last few increases closer together.

I think I will be cozy in my new Vigdis this winter.

Viking Patterns for Knitting was published in a soft cover edition last year so it should still be widely available.

Photo by Anders Rydell.