Alyssa

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Alyssa is worked with two strands of my lovely Silky Wool. This creates a quite dense fabric which makes it more of a jacket than a cardigan.

I was intrigued by the pattern made with traveling stitches on a garter stitch background, but a bit wary since it demands some attention on the wrong side too, but with the limited amount of patterning it was quite fun to knit.

The jacket has a number of unusual features; for example the garter band is knitted on and framed by garter ridges in the opposite direction. I have used a few buttons placed in a slightly whimsical way but of course you can easily have buttons all along the front, and as many as you deem suitable.

Cables are knitted separately and sewn on horizontally.

All this combines to create a bit of challenge even for an experienced knitter, but the finished result is a a unique garment that will give you years of joy.

Happy Knitting

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A note on yarn substitutions and updates for some of my Viking Patterns

My Viking Project has been active for a long time and yarns have come and gone on an ever changing market. Viking Patterns for Knitting was recently re-published in a soft cover version. Most of the yarns have been discontinued but here is some help regarding yarn substitution.

Note that when you substitute the yarn the suggested needle size may no longer apply. Be sure to check that the gauge is correct or your garment will end up with different measurements.

The difference in yarn consumption is an estimate, be sure to buy enough yarn to complete the project. If in doubt, confer with your local yarn store.

Errata can be found here: http://www.ingenkonst.se/vpn_err.htm

Fjalar

Original yarn 100% wool, 50 g = 125 m, Silky Wool, 50 g = 175 m, 45% wool/35% silk/20% nylon.dsc9145_fjalar_julia_srgb72

I just wanted to show that Fjalar looks just as gorgeous knitted in Silky Wool. The drop shoulders and wide sleeves create a very modern silhouette.

Here the original yarn has a shorter length per weight so you’ll need about 30% less yarn.

Freja

Original yarn wool/silk blend, 50 g = 200 m, Silky Wool, 50 g = 175 m. A dear friend has knitted this in Silky Wool with a lovely result. Note that you will have to change the needle size to match the gauge as Silky Wool is thicker than the original yarn. You’ll need about 20% more yarn.

Frode

Original yarn 100% wool, 50 g = 100 m. I have no current suggestion for substitution.

Fjörgyn

Original yarn 100 g = 100 m. The original Lopi yarn is still widely available and really the only suitable yarn.

Harald

Original yarn 100% wool, 50 g = 75 m. Calm Wool, 50 g = 75 m, 40% wool / 30% alpaca/ 30% camel. I would knit this again in my Calm Wool. It has the same length so the yarn consumption is the same. It has a similar hand so the cables will turn out equally fat and delicious but the Calm Wool is softer. It has been discontinued but may still be available.

Hermod

Original yarn recycled wool mix, 50 g = 69 m. Silky Wool held double would actually produce a fabric with much the same feel as the original. It would have 88 m = 50 g which means that the yarn consumption would be approx. 20 % less.

Hervor

Original yarn 100% wool, 50 g = 135 m. I have no current suggestion for substitution.

Rafn

Original yarn 100% alpaca, 100 g = 150 m. I have no current suggestion for substitution.

Kysmik child’s sweater

Original yarn wool/silk blend, 50 g = 175 m. Silky Wool, 50 g = 175 m. Silky Wool is an exact match.

Kysmik man’s vest Original yarn 100% wool, 50 g = 100 m. I have no current suggestion for substitution.

Ragna

Original yarn 100% wool Tweed, 50 g = 75 m. Silky Wool XL, 50 g = 85 m. My Silky Wool XL would be a lovely alternative. This would also work well in both my Tweedy Wool, 50 g = 125 m which would create a much lighter garment and use almost 30% less yarn and in Misty Wool, 50 g = 105 m with a yarn consumption reduced by 20%.

Siv

Original yarn wool/silk blend, 50 g = 200 m, Silky Wool, 50 g = 175 m. As for Freja, change needle size and check gauge. You’ll need about 20% more yarn.

Vigdis

Original yarn 100 g = 100 m. I have no current suggestion for substitution. Se my notes on the updated version in Misty Wool in an earlier post.

You can find the current yarns in my yarn line here:

https://knittingfever.com/brand/elsebeth-lavold/yarn

Sunilda

d8c_4297_sunilda1_srgb72Sunilda, p 22 in The Second Viking Knits Collection, was initially knitted in Cotton Patiné, a cotton yarn that has been discontinued, witch had a slightly looser gauge than what I use for Silky Wool.

I knitted Sunilda in Silky Wool using the normal gauge of 22 sts per 4 inches / 10 cm  and it worked like a charm.

The original measurements were rather generous so its still works at a tighter gauge, the chest circumference is 95% of the original.

I just knitted from the instructions in the book, but if I were to re-knit it again, I would make the sleeves tighter, maybe remove 10 sts, 5 at each side, from the cast-on and all the way to the top. As a consequence I would have to make the armhole ¾ inch shorter by binding off for the armhole ¾ inch later than stated in the instructions.

I love it!

Sunilda

Sunilda, p 22 in The Second Viking Knits Collection, was initially knitted in Cotton Patiné, a cotton yarn that has been discontinued, witch had a slightly looser gauge than what I use for Silky Wool.

I knitted Sunilda in Silky Wool using the normal gauge of 22 sts / 4 inches and it worked like a charm.

The original measurements were rather generous so its still works at a tighter gauge, the chest circumference is 95% of the original.

I just knitted from the instructions in the book, but if I were to re-knit it again, I would make the sleeves tighter, maybe remove 10 sts, 5 at each side, from the cast-on and all the way to the top. As a consequence I would have to make the armhole ¾ inch shorter by binding off for the armhole ¾ inch later than stated in the instructions.

Photo as always Anders Rydell.

I love it!

Olivia & Ernie

Two new patterns for kids are now available for download on Ravelry.

They were photographed in late August on a small local beach. We had planned an outing to take a family photograph of the girls and their parents. The older one had been photographed before, for a different project, so we asked, could we bring a couple of sweaters and use Julia, and possibly her sister, if they felt like it. We never want to force children, the whole photo experience has to be a good one.

Well, at first Julia didn’t want to, and anyway the cardigan was too big for her (the cardigan is knitted for a size 6 years, she is a small 4-year-old), so we decided to just play around some. Then all of a sudden, there’s Maja, the little sister, in the hoodie. So Anders grabs his camera and starts shooting as we play. Then Julia pulls on the cardie – she wants to be in on the fun too. So that way we did get a bunch of lovely photos.

Although the photos aren’t perfect; the hair is in disarray, the t-shirts are showing etc., the girls are so pretty and full of life and it was just such a perfect day that we decided to use the photos anyway. And there’s a bonus in the fact that the photos show off the garments in a real life situation.

Olivia

Is a versatile cardie with a pretty pattern balanced by plain stockinette sleeves (the sleeves have the same rolled edgings as the body).

Ernie

Just a plain hoodie, suitable for both girls and boys. The eagle motif on the kangaroo pocket is inspired by Native American imagery and the contrast color is used again in the rolled edgings.

The name is actually a Swedish (bad) pun. The Swedish word for eagle is Örn, pronounced as the first part of Ernie. I just couldn’t help myself.

I gave the girls the sweaters as a thanks for helping us and they love them. I hope your whatever-year-olds will love theirs too.

Photo as always Anders Rydell.

Jarnsaxa

Jarnsaxa is one of my favorite designs. It is one that works well in my life and on my body. I have also made a version in red, with a garter stitch crew neck so I can wear a turtleneck sweater underneath. I have worn my first red Jarnsaxa to shreds, so I had to make another. Here is my latest version shown on lovely Johanna.

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I did initially make a longer version as well, which can be seen here, photographed on pretty Sabrina. For those of you who would like to lengthen it, all I’ve done is work a longer stretch before the first motif, everything else is following the instructions.

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Both versions, as well as the original, are worked in my Silky Wool yarn.

The pattern for Jarnsaxa can be found on p.139 in Viking Knits and Ancient Ornaments, where you can also find almost 100 new cable panels and motifs and a number of other designs as well as drawings and photographs of historic and pre-historic artefacts decorated with the same interlace patterns.

Photo as always, Anders Rydell

A new kitchen

A new kitchen dictated a need for new potholders.

Since potholders are basically smallish squares with a loop for hanging, potholders can be used for experimenting with new techniques. Now, I wasn’t really in that place, too much going on in my life. What I needed was zen knitting.

And this is what I came up with; using garter stitch and modular knitting it became fun and I ended up with a new (at least to me) way of picking up stitches along garter stitch edges that makes the fabric more reversible. Here it is:

A more reversible method of picking up stitches along garter stitch edges

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Insert a double-pointed needle (I used a circular) into the little knotsat the edge, created by the garter stitches, 1 stitch to each garter ridge. You may have to add the last stitch in the form of a loop.

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Pull the needle through so you can start knitting from the correct end of the work.

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Knit (you’ll need to knit into the back loop of the stitch on the first row)!

That’s all there is to it.

My Hempathy yarn is very suitable for kitchen duty; sturdy, washable and slightly antibacterial (in a natural, non-aggressive way) thanks to the hemp content, but too thin. So after a couple of trials I decided to use three strands held together. The potholders are somewhat slippery until they’ve been washed.

This is he first pair of potholders knitted to match my new kitchen. I will post more versions later on (I ended up knitting several for friends and family). This is a perfect gift and the design works for many styles from ultra modern to more traditional.

Here’s the recipe:

Potholders / Hot pad

Knitted with 3 strands of Hempathy on US size 8 / 5 mm needles to a gauge of approximately 18 stitches and 36 rows to 4 x 4 inches / 10 x 10 cm. Note that this means the same number of stitches and rows. The gauge isn’t important; a lloser gauge will make the potholders larger and a tighter gauge will make them smaller. What is important is that they are thick and firm enough to isolate the heat.

Each potholder is 32 sts x 32 garter ridges (64 rows). The cast-on row is counted as row 1 and you’ll bind off on row 32.

I’ve used 2–3 colors and each potholder weighs just under 50 g, so 3 balls of Hempathy would make a matching set of 2 potholders and a hot pad. This is also a perfect way to use odds and ends.

Cast on 18–22 sts and work 62 rows of garter st (31 ridges). Bind off but do not break the yarn. Pick up 1 st in each garter ridge (see above) until you have 32 sts.

Now work 20–28 rows of garter st (10–14 ridges).

The total number of stitches + rows should be the same in each direction, in this case 32.

Bind off all sts but do not break the yarn (except for the hot pad). Now crochet 15 single crochet. Pull yarn through and fasten to make a loop.

I hope you’ll have fun playing around with colors, striping, and different widths on the different sections.

Photos as always, Anders Rydell