Ghita and Tinalee

My two summer tops this year.

 

Ghita is a versatile and relaxed top. Easy to knit, easy to wear, a very “summery” garment, and Hempathy is the perfect yarn for it.

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For a long time I’ve been wanting to knit a project across, instead of bottom-up. My issue has been that I haven’t been able to find the combination of pattern and shape that will work together so that the drape of the garment is to my satisfaction. Then I stumbled on this openwork basketweave pattern and something clicked in my brain. Combining it with cable panels knitted across might solve my dilemma.

Using the cable panels as a yoke gives the top a stability and then the basketweave pattern can flow freely from there. The fact that it is knitted from the yoke down has the added bonus of making it easy to adjust the length to your preferred proportions.

Tinalee combines easy elegance with a touch of romance.

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I’ve been wanting to use this lovely lace panel for quite some time, especially using the arrow-shaped beginning. Here the lace panel is worked on a stockinette background and placed on the upper part of the front only. The rest of the top is worked in a simple knit and purl textured pattern.

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There’s no shaping at the sides, and no shaping for armholes, instead a drawstring at the waist supplies shaping possibilities when you wear the top. The lovely Hempathy yarn is supple and cool. Crocheted picot edgings add to the romantic feel.

I enjoyed making them and wearing them, I hope that you will too.

Both are now available for download at my Ravelry store

http://www.ravelry.com/stores/elsebeth-lavold-designs

Photo by Anders Rydell

The best-laid plans of mice and men

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Wasn’t there something about mice and men and the best-laid plans? Well, that has been at work this spring so my summer designs have been severely delayed. But at last they are ready for publishing and I will be presenting them, one at a time, over the next week or so.

First out is Grainne, one of my personal summer favorites, knit in LinSilk, a soft and drapey yarn, ideal for cool summer nights.

The basic design is derived from the bodice of the Rye Cardigan in book 25, Garden Delight. For Grainne I turned it into a sweater, echoing the motifs on a three-quarter length sleeve. The motifs are my own design, using a combination of cable and lace technique, i.e. yarnovers and decreases, which does provide a bit of challenge.

I love the golden orange color – bright but not glaring. And it works so well with my favored moss and lime greens, or as shown here, with off-white.

I have a short upper body and look best in short sweaters. If you prefer a longer version you can easily add length at the bottom of the sweater before the first motif. The stockinette “stalks” in combination with the character of the yarn, makes the sweater cling to your body curves without being tight.

You can find it here http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/grainne-3

Photo, as always, by Anders Rydell.

Yrsa

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Yrsa was first published in Knitters Magazine K72, Fall 2003 under the name Cul-de-sac. It has been immensely sought after, and I am still getting requests for it.

The magazine has been long out of print and the pattern unavailable.

So, finally, I have re-knitted it in my wonderful Silky Wool. It is a design that is close to my heart, the shape, the placement of the pattern elements, the vent in the back and the points on the fronts all come together to create a harmonious whole. And Silky Wool is a better choice than the DK I originally used, but it was before my yarn line had commenced. So here is Yrsa, photographed by Anders Rydell; timeless, ageless, feminine and flattering as well as fun to knit.

The pattern is available from my Ravelry store http://www.ravelry.com/stores/elsebeth-lavold-designs

Far right, the version published in Knitter’s Magazine, Photo by Alexis Xenakis.

Aslak

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Here is a Viking Knits Sweater for the Viking Guy. In this case, with my good-looking Godson #1, Joar, as a model. The photoshoot took place at a local “hembygdsgård”, a kind of outdoor museum with old houses and farming paraphernalia. We had a cold but lovely afternoon together.

The Yarn is my lovely Misty Wool, 75% Wool, 25% Hemp, a comfortable blend, adding interest to the stockinette sections of the design. The sweater has a cabled yoke that accentuates the shoulders and, as an unusual feature, the cabling is echoed on the bottom of the sleeve.

The lower part of the body is plain stockinette, and since it is knitted from the yoke down, you can easily adjust the length to suit your Viking Guy. And if you prefer working this part in the round to avoid those pesky purls, that is easily done.

Photo as always, Anders Rydell.

Happy Knitting!

Alyssa

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Alyssa is worked with two strands of my lovely Silky Wool. This creates a quite dense fabric which makes it more of a jacket than a cardigan.

I was intrigued by the pattern made with traveling stitches on a garter stitch background, but a bit wary since it demands some attention on the wrong side too, but with the limited amount of patterning it was quite fun to knit.

The jacket has a number of unusual features; for example the garter band is knitted on and framed by garter ridges in the opposite direction. I have used a few buttons placed in a slightly whimsical way but of course you can easily have buttons all along the front, and as many as you deem suitable.

Cables are knitted separately and sewn on horizontally.

All this combines to create a bit of challenge even for an experienced knitter, but the finished result is a a unique garment that will give you years of joy.

Happy Knitting

A note on yarn substitutions and updates for some of my Viking Patterns

My Viking Project has been active for a long time and yarns have come and gone on an ever changing market. Viking Patterns for Knitting was recently re-published in a soft cover version. Most of the yarns have been discontinued but here is some help regarding yarn substitution.

Note that when you substitute the yarn the suggested needle size may no longer apply. Be sure to check that the gauge is correct or your garment will end up with different measurements.

The difference in yarn consumption is an estimate, be sure to buy enough yarn to complete the project. If in doubt, confer with your local yarn store.

Errata can be found here: http://www.ingenkonst.se/vpn_err.htm

Fjalar

Original yarn 100% wool, 50 g = 125 m, Silky Wool, 50 g = 175 m, 45% wool/35% silk/20% nylon.dsc9145_fjalar_julia_srgb72

I just wanted to show that Fjalar looks just as gorgeous knitted in Silky Wool. The drop shoulders and wide sleeves create a very modern silhouette.

Here the original yarn has a shorter length per weight so you’ll need about 30% less yarn.

Freja

Original yarn wool/silk blend, 50 g = 200 m, Silky Wool, 50 g = 175 m. A dear friend has knitted this in Silky Wool with a lovely result. Note that you will have to change the needle size to match the gauge as Silky Wool is thicker than the original yarn. You’ll need about 20% more yarn.

Frode

Original yarn 100% wool, 50 g = 100 m. I have no current suggestion for substitution.

Fjörgyn

Original yarn 100 g = 100 m. The original Lopi yarn is still widely available and really the only suitable yarn.

Harald

Original yarn 100% wool, 50 g = 75 m. Calm Wool, 50 g = 75 m, 40% wool / 30% alpaca/ 30% camel. I would knit this again in my Calm Wool. It has the same length so the yarn consumption is the same. It has a similar hand so the cables will turn out equally fat and delicious but the Calm Wool is softer. It has been discontinued but may still be available.

Hermod

Original yarn recycled wool mix, 50 g = 69 m. Silky Wool held double would actually produce a fabric with much the same feel as the original. It would have 88 m = 50 g which means that the yarn consumption would be approx. 20 % less.

Hervor

Original yarn 100% wool, 50 g = 135 m. I have no current suggestion for substitution.

Rafn

Original yarn 100% alpaca, 100 g = 150 m. I have no current suggestion for substitution.

Kysmik child’s sweater

Original yarn wool/silk blend, 50 g = 175 m. Silky Wool, 50 g = 175 m. Silky Wool is an exact match.

Kysmik man’s vest Original yarn 100% wool, 50 g = 100 m. I have no current suggestion for substitution.

Ragna

Original yarn 100% wool Tweed, 50 g = 75 m. Silky Wool XL, 50 g = 85 m. My Silky Wool XL would be a lovely alternative. This would also work well in both my Tweedy Wool, 50 g = 125 m which would create a much lighter garment and use almost 30% less yarn and in Misty Wool, 50 g = 105 m with a yarn consumption reduced by 20%.

Siv

Original yarn wool/silk blend, 50 g = 200 m, Silky Wool, 50 g = 175 m. As for Freja, change needle size and check gauge. You’ll need about 20% more yarn.

Vigdis

Original yarn 100 g = 100 m. I have no current suggestion for substitution. Se my notes on the updated version in Misty Wool in an earlier post.

You can find the current yarns in my yarn line here:

https://knittingfever.com/brand/elsebeth-lavold/yarn

Sunilda

d8c_4297_sunilda1_srgb72Sunilda, p 22 in The Second Viking Knits Collection, was initially knitted in Cotton Patiné, a cotton yarn that has been discontinued, witch had a slightly looser gauge than what I use for Silky Wool.

I knitted Sunilda in Silky Wool using the normal gauge of 22 sts per 4 inches / 10 cm  and it worked like a charm.

The original measurements were rather generous so its still works at a tighter gauge, the chest circumference is 95% of the original.

I just knitted from the instructions in the book, but if I were to re-knit it again, I would make the sleeves tighter, maybe remove 10 sts, 5 at each side, from the cast-on and all the way to the top. As a consequence I would have to make the armhole ¾ inch shorter by binding off for the armhole ¾ inch later than stated in the instructions.

I love it!

Sunilda

Sunilda, p 22 in The Second Viking Knits Collection, was initially knitted in Cotton Patiné, a cotton yarn that has been discontinued, witch had a slightly looser gauge than what I use for Silky Wool.

I knitted Sunilda in Silky Wool using the normal gauge of 22 sts / 4 inches and it worked like a charm.

The original measurements were rather generous so its still works at a tighter gauge, the chest circumference is 95% of the original.

I just knitted from the instructions in the book, but if I were to re-knit it again, I would make the sleeves tighter, maybe remove 10 sts, 5 at each side, from the cast-on and all the way to the top. As a consequence I would have to make the armhole ¾ inch shorter by binding off for the armhole ¾ inch later than stated in the instructions.

Photo as always Anders Rydell.

I love it!